Impoverished food

by frog

There is a vibrant food debate going on between New Zealand blogs Object Dart and In a Strange Land on the politics of food.

It began last week when No Right Turn pointed to this Guardian article about Jamie Oliver’s latest television show, where Oliver attempts to teach people to cook and eat healthy food.

Beginning with the Guardian and Oliver:

Natasha feeds her two children takeaways most nights. Aged five and two, they have never eaten a meal that has been properly cooked at home. Instead, they sit on the floor – no table, no cutlery – and eat shavings of doner kebabs or chips with processed cheese from polystyrene boxes with their fingers…

Natasha turns out not only to have a big cooker and TV but debts large enough to make her a pawn-shop regular, and depression deep enough to make her give up trying. When Oliver finds this out he confides to the camera in his car, “I don’t blame her … but I’m fucking angry. I’m fucking angry and I don’t know who with or what with.” He has just met poverty in all its 21st-century complexity – and it has a profound effect.

Of course food, or to give it its scientific term, diet, is closely related to the multitude of barriers that poor people need to overcome to succeed – diabetes, heart disease, obesity, poor educational outcomes, crime, exclusion… All the same problems about class, food and deprivation exist here in New Zealand as well as Britian.

Which is where Che at Object Dart picks up the debate:

And in an age where food has never been cheaper and easier to get, that’s nothing less than a tragedy.

It appears natural at this point to cast about for someone to blame. Someone must be responsible for these people learning about the basics of life and nutritional tidbits like “an apple is better than a bag of sugar”. In a place like New Zealand the blame eventually settles on “the gubbermint”. Poor people can’t feed themselves properly because they haven’t been educated right. The middle classes don’t feed themselves because taxation is forcing families to work two jobs to make ends meet. The very wealthy eat badly because flash restaurants don’t always serve healthy options between the foams and the other stuff.

And his prognosis:

This leaves me thinking that the tragedy of the people Oliver is depicting isn’t one of money. You can still eat healthily on a very low income (though not necessarily in volume). The tragedy is that they’re not participants in a society that routinely values making an effort to learn how to make the culinary most of what they have. After all, why make the effort when you’re told that you can get by with takeaways?

Meanwhile Deborah at In a Strange Land objects:

It ain’t so easy, even with all the knowledge, and all the resources… So what do I want, from Jamie Oliver, and other concerned foodists?

A little understanding. A little realising that preparing good food three times a day, every day, takes a huge amount of effort. A little thinking that adding one more social pressure to working parents may result in nothing more than parents who are even more stricken with the thought that somehow, they are not doing it right.

Poverty is a key part of the problem and cannot be easily dismissed.  We need to ensure that everybody has the financial resources to make healthy sustainable food choices for themselves and their families.

Personally I think the a lot of the focus we put on food politics is at the eating end, after all the high fructose corn syrup, grease and endosulfan has already made its way onto our shelves.  We spend relatively little time at the other end – agriculture – deciding what sort of food it is we want to eat and thus should promote. It maybe that part of the solution lies on our farms and in our waters rather than in the hands of celebrity chefs.

frog says

Published in Health & Wellbeing | Society & Culture by frog on Fri, October 10th, 2008   

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